THE storied city of Derry (above) is one with an outstanding depth of history—a history that it wears its history on its sleeve.
At the heart of this vibrant urban centre stands the 17th century city walls, a mile-long oval enclosure that stands nearly 20 feet high and just as wide. These impressive stone fortifications, complete with gates, watchtowers, and cannons, are the only fully intact city walls remaining on the island of Ireland.
No true experience of Derry can be had without taking a leisurely stroll along the top of these ancient walls. As you wander, you learn the fascinating stories of the city’s past—the 17th century sieges, the starving citizens, and the thunderous roar of cannons that once echoed through the streets. After this foray into the past you can bring yourself into the present, by crossing the iconic Peace Bridge. In that passage from past to present you can feel the journey the city of Derry has been on—once drained and battered by conflict, but now a genuine destination for tourism and travel. You witness this on the far side of the Peace Bridge, where you reach Ebrington Square and the Walled City Brewery, where you can raise a glass and toast to this unique and resilient city.
Derry’s history extends well beyond its famous walls. Just a short distance away, the Tower Museum delves into the story of the doomed Spanish Armada, recounting the dramatic tale of the 1588 shipwreck of the massive galleon La Trinidad Valencera just off the Donegal coast. Through immersive audiovisual displays, you’ll get a grisly glimpse into the dangerous adventures and fates of those 16th century seafarers. And Derry proves to be the perfect base to explore two of Ireland’s great coastal touring routes—the Wild Atlantic Way and the Causeway Coastal Route—putting the rugged beauty of the Irish seascape right at your fingertips.
One urban relic which lingers in the city and is a world away from the harsh but beautiful coastline is the the tradition of greyhound racing. At the Brandywell stadium, where locals have gathered for generations to watch the dogs do battle on the track, this once massive spectator sport remains a part of city life, even though it has moved just next door. Like dog racing in all places, the numbers may have fallen but it still holds its place as a part of Derry life.
In the city centre, the stunning Guildhall stands as Derry’s architectural centrepiece. This red-brick, neo-Gothic masterpiece, situated on a picturesque square, is worth a visit, especially if you time it right to hear the massive pipe organ filling the air with music. Nearby, the Cultúrlann Uí Chanáin language centre showcases the traditional music, song, and dance that are the lifeblood of Irish culture. For a taste of the city’s vibrant culinary scene, stop by local favourites like Browns Restaurant and Craft Village Bistro.
Beyond the historic buildings, Derry has another distinctive feature—its murals. Painted directly on the walls, these vibrant works of public art offer a window into the city’s tumultuous past, providing a moving visual chronicle of The Troubles that shaped this community. Take a guided walking tour to delve deeper into the stories behind these thought-provoking artworks.
Dublin (above) , unlike Derry, has been a tourist hotspot for many years. The cosmopolitan capital of Ireland offers a markedly different experience, but one that is no less engaging. On a different scale to Derry, it offers more a challenge for those who like to find their way around a city on foot. It can be one though, from the well-known attraction of the Guinness Storehouse, just a short stroll away stand Dublin's two grand cathedrals—St Patrick’s and Christ Church. Both ancient and intriguing, these centres of spiritual significance have attracted pilgrims for centuries.
For an intellectual and cultural experience, you could—if the pubs aren’t calling loudly enough—make your way to Trinity College, the alma mater of luminaries like Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde, and Jonathan Swift. Within the college’s charming campus, you’ll find the famed Book of Kells, a breathtaking illuminated medieval manuscript, as well as the magnificent Long Room Library, one of Europe’s most celebrated book repositories.
Delving into Ireland’s diaspora, the award-winning EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum chronicles the inspiring journeys of the over 10 million people who left the island’s shores throughout history. And just across the River Liffey, Glasnevin Cemetery serves as a treasure trove of records, with 1.5 million burials including many of the nation's founders and forefathers.
No visit to Dublin is complete without exploring the city’s past at Dublin Castle. This sprawling complex, with origins dating back to the 13th century, has served as a court, a fortress, and even a site of execution over its long history. Wander the grounds, take a tour of the state apartments, and marvel at the architectural evolution that has unfolded within these walls.
Whether you’re drawn to the haunting history of Kilmainham Gaol, the diverse collections of the National Museum and National Gallery, or the tranquil green spaces like St Stephen’s Green and the Phoenix Park, Dublin offers an abundance of cultural riches to discover. And with many of the city’s top museums offering free admission, you’re free to wander and explore at your own pace. The hulking majesty of Croke Park and the captivating museum there are an absolute must-see for the visiting sports fan.
From the ancient walls of Derry to the modern metropolitan charms of Dublin, the island of Ireland presents travellers with an intoxicating blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of Ireland’s past or embracing its vibrant present, these two cities offer unparalleled opportunities to connect with the heart and soul of this captivating country.
For more information on where to go and what to do on city breaks in Ireland, visit: www.ireland.com
Comments